Monday, September 30, 2013

Bule on a Bicycle

     Starting this past week I have begun biking about the city of Yogyakarta and it has been wonderful. I bike the 4 or so kilometers to and from school everyday, which is pretty darn short, but usually takes about twenty minutes because: a) it's always hot so nobody rides a bike very fast except at night otherwise you will sweat profusely, and b) the traffic here is crazy which makes going anywhere a bit difficult.

     Speaking of traffic, I'd like to attempt to make you understand what I mean when I say "traffic here is crazy". First off, lanes are suggestions. Actually, lanes aren't even suggestions, they are just lines painted on the ground for the amusement of the government. Anybody can drive anywhere at any time. This includes using turn lanes to go straight, not having turn lanes to pull u-turns causing traffic to back up, and the "bike lane" existing simply as another car lane. Additionally, the motor (a term used for pretty much any two-wheeled vehicle with a motor, be it true motorcycle, scooter, moped, etc) to car ratio is about 5 to 1. Even fewer rules apply for motor and they freely whiz about, weaving between cars and slower motor drivers. Right of way as we know it does not exist. Pretty much whoever is going fastest and is most aggressive gets the go ahead. This is particularly true when pulling out onto roads, pulling u-turns, and backing out of parking. You just slowly creep forward until you block the entire lane forcing any oncoming traffic to stop, allowing you a chance to get out.

     Parking is another fun aspect of life her. There are rarely parking lots and the streets are by no means wide enough for a parking lane. Usually in front of all shops there is just a slab of cement that you pull into or sort of parallel park in so that at least you aren't in the middle of the road. Because the cost of labor is so cheap here, pretty much every place, be it a restaurant or a perfume shop, has a parking attendant. These guys helps you park as close together as possible and then yell at oncoming traffic, sometimes they even have whistles, to get them to stop and let you out. They also collect the 2000rp it costs to park a car or 1000rp it costs to park motor anywhere in the city. The price is standard for every parking space except at special events. By the way, 2000rp is only about 20 cents.

     Getting back to riding bicycles, I have also ridden down to Molioboro, which is the main shopping and tourist visiting street here in Jogja, which is only 15 minutes or so away. The best, however, is the Jogja Last Friday Ride. For the last Friday of every month, teenagers from all over the city gather at the stadium near the center of the city and go for an hour long bike ride. I'm talking hundreds of people with all different types of bikes, including these crazy 6ft tall bikes that everyone here seems to own, riding in a mob that occupies half the street they're on. This last Friday, a couple of my friends from school took Samantha from Brazil, Romane from Belgium, and I along for the Jalafara (Jogja Last Friday Ride). Sadly I did not snap any pictures because I forgot my camera, but I plan on going again next month so I'll try to remember then.

     As for the term "bule" which is something along the lines of the Spanish term "gringo" but a bit more endearing. It's used specifically for white foreigners I believe, but I'm actually not positive on that one. Sometimes when I'm with my family or friends, I can tell when a stranger is asking about me because they will usually refer to me as bule. I can't understand what they are saying about me, but at least I know it's about me.

     That's all for now, I'm just about to leave to visit Kraton, the Sultan of Jogja's palace, so expect a post about that soon-ish. Cheers.

2 comments:

  1. Love the idea of the jalafara, looking forward to seeing your pics of it next month.

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  2. The traffic sounds harrowing! The Last Friday Ride sounds cool. I want to see those 6' bikes!

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